Lopen Sonam’s Big Apple Blog

From Bhutan to the Battery, follow Lopen Sonam, one of the Bhutanese monks accompanying the sacred art featured in The Dragon's Gift exhibition, as he explores the life and culture of New York City.

To learn more about The Dragon's Gift exhibition and the sacred objects that Sonam is accompanying, visit The Dragon's Gift webpage.

Lopen Sonam, Lama Karma, and RMA weaver-in-residence Sangay Choden recently spent a day with Time Out New York. See the article here.

December 31, 2008: Last blog and I will keep in touch from Bhutan

Death is certain but to be reborn is uncertain. From the beginning of our life time, we the human being “Homo Sapien” or Manushya had passed countless life stages in various forms of living creatures in different realm of sufferings we had undergone myriad of life and in accordance of our karma we have borne the punishment. Completing the eighteen conditions of blessings, we had gain an embodiment of human beings.

Before I really go into my topic, I thank my dearest Anna and staffs of RMA who gave me full privilege and support in writing this blog. To my concern about writing language, phrases, and structure of my sentences does not make much sense and convey intense meaning to every reader. As well to my notion I hope it will not turn down your precious time and bore you. Still then who trust and believe in my words of my truth, may I share brief account on my childhood life, family and on my education, too. Well, my dear reader, I acknowledge you all to give full support and endure of my mistakes. Indeed I am not a man of letters but I am jack of all trade but master of none. Yet I learn through mistakes.

Adhere to my real topic, may I introduce some points on “Druk Yul,” The Land of Thunder Dragon. The name Bhutan, Druk Yul The Land of Thunder Dragon: its origin of name date back centuries with historical backgrounds handed down from the generation of fore fathers and it still exist today as “Bhutan” amongst the world’s developing countries, Bhutan stands amidst those two biggest countries: to the south, India, and to the north, China with rich biodiversity of flora and fauna. Throughout year round, in the high peaks and passes remain frozen where vegetation of climatic effects is maintained effectively by global warming and yearly round changing of seasons. In ancient days Bhutan was ruled by different heads in different regions name Penlops and Dzongpons. Soon under brave leadership, first king Gongsar Ugyen Wangchuck brought under one rule where Wangchuck dynasty still exists today.

I, Sonam Wangchuk, was not a hereditary name, but it was coincidence given by parents born to a very low family in the southern foothills of Eastern region of Bhutan. On the rocky table land surrounded by pine and oak trees they thrive in subsistence farming, growing of main food crops, maize, millet, buckwheat, barley, and every fruit plants. The couples strive for the daily needs for the family, though hard it was to gain, but they managed to live by hand to mouth. To certain extent of my realization to past thought of childhood I had lived half naked where my thought reflect back to some sorts of tribes at this stage. Insane I was and for the daily meal I walk to every door, but hardly I find sometimes. It was hard time for my poor dad and mum where everyday they had sweat from every roots of hair with spades and plough in sun and rain.

Life was challenging where I was trained to live from the very early age: hand never freed from tools and roam in every corner to find load on my back, a pound of stuffs worth Nu. 8 have to travel miles and miles for the daily needs. In childhood of my age, sense of embarrassment was ignored and never exist like these days where I usually stayed naked with my friends. In the dusty rubbish we gather for the game, mud molded into sculptures and animal effigies we sat in row play the game of ceremony. In those days the three wheel wooden car was popular where every dusk we take to the steep slopes and roll down in high speed. Until I was satisfied I never quit my game and find work to be done. Dart and archery, the national game, was the most interesting I enjoyed in different occasion like New Year, blessed rainy day and so on.

Education, road link and electricity facilities was just a name and the name school was deaf to my ear. Later some years passed by, many people took hardship in constructing of school and few years later school was opened till third grade. Dressed in my gho, name “selthra” I went to register my name. About two hundred youngsters gathered from every village from high and low. Among all I was the one in old rags and in bare foot. Nearly seven years in cold, a crack would be drenched in blood and hot summer was challenging too where burning leads to blisters and sometimes a sharp thorn, nails and glasses bring to the bed. How hard it was to my life, I endured for the word of education in old rags, torn and hems every part. Hardly I had one to change and my parents never bothered for my needs. Keeping up my studies I qualified from 3rd grade and went to another school which was boarding but they served only one meal a day. For the rest of the morning and evening meals we packed rations for the whole week and was cooked by two brothers who were also studying. Every weekend when school was over, we rushed back to home to collect food stuffs. In hot summer of scorching sun, a heated gravel on the way troubled me. A burning sensation underneath would trickle down and sometimes where I drag and find shade through forest.

Three years later I took broad exam and qualified for the seventh grade. Unfortunately my poor parents could not afford to buy my school uniform, however, they managed old rags of my brothers and shoes of which one was all worn out. It was my first experience and slipper I wore on my foot after running six years in hot and cold. Still my old faded rags seem ever changing to my friends’ eyes and I felt too but then I never lose my hope for the study. When at tenth grade, government introduce the learning of scriptures in the school. Soon my mind changed and by awareness of sufferings I gave up my school life and was ordained as monk at Trashigang Monastery. With word of my pledge to my lord, I took vow to be a monk. Soon I started to learn my basic level of texts. After a couple of months in Trashigang Monastery I learned to be well disciplined in every field and soon I was sent to Buddhist Institute under Punakha Province named Lekshed Jungney Shedra. Under great expert in Buddhist philosophy, arts and literature, Ven. Lekshed Jamtsho, I took hardship in learning of 13th texts days and night. After five years of my course in Buddhist philosophy, I was sent back to my monastery and when about four months passed by I was appointed as “Lopen,” literally meaning “teacher.” I serve my duty well in bringing up my youngsters to stand on their own feet and to face the challenges. I will keep up my same spirit for every individual, however they turn bad and file my word of advice I will prove to be honest and paved their way to right track.

“New York,” my dreamland, was it really my dream to visit my dreamland? Yes, it was, and every phase of my abroad thought, among world developing countries New York stand as icon in my life. Days passed by, a word spread in every corner where friends gather to gossip about my trip. I had big contradiction among friends, some debate and make fun of my word, but a word of my promise never forgot. “God sees the truth but waits.” Not so long after my completion of my study by the grace of my lord and my past fate was destined to my dreamland, “New York!”

My first travel in the plane was most wondrous and amazing. Soaring high beneath the blue sky on the white foam of clouds, it shared immeasurable joy to my heart. In childhood time whenever I heard the sound of plane I rushed to the direction and question myself, “Do I have fate to fly from the sky, in this generation?” If not, in next, I keep thinking. At my first arrival as days and night had changed, about weeks I was in the dream where I slept in the day time and stayed awake at night. But soon I adapt to lovely people, environment and timing, where my first impression took over by cheering smile of New Yorkers. Coming to my dreamland, I had experience and enjoyed beyond my dream, but I felt so sorry for my dreamland that I could not contribute anything worth, still then in presence of my sacred art and daily prayer might had plant the seed of enlightenment who believe and trust.

Among millions of New Yorkers, first I approached to my dearest Anna, Tashi and followed by cheering staffs of RMA. The two lovely friends strive in every needs for me and play a role more than my family did for my life. A word of my request was approved in any crucial time where they sacrifice for their needs too. Their loving kindness and caring of me, it was beyond my hope, but in reality they are in true nature. Their name was in everyone’s heart and what I came across was my karmic reconnection that our fate has gathered us alike one family. Best of the best my Anna had served her best coffee every morning and Tashi in her great reverence she gather tea and cool drinks that I had enjoyed. Sometime we gathered in one plate and cup, sharing a beautiful memory that is inscribed in my core heart.

My special thanks to my dearest Anna, Tashi, and every single staffs of RMA who took a pain of me and explore to various landscapes and features as well as to the culture too. First trip was showed by Eddie Jose of Honolulu to the Metropolitan Museum. It was unbelievable and art work was most fascinating. Followed by Aoife she brought to the Brooklyn Aquarium where sharks, whales and different animals made a big surprise. What I had enjoyed the beautiful sights of my dreamland was borne by personal interest and guided by everyone. A beautiful Bronx Botanical Garden of scented breeze, full blossomed plant awake from my drowsy in big smile, it was came up by Miss Laura. In the Cloisters Museum led by Tess was amazing where her tale of Jesus reflect back to the ascetics of my lord. Beach! Beach! Beach and ocean was just a name in my mind that was blind to my eyes. Mary Lou took trouble to drive hours and hours in patience to the shore where at my first glimpse burst my heart into happiness. Never the less its beautiful waves and vastness was incredible and beyond my imagination sharing ever quenching joy to my heart.

My friendly companion of Anna, Tashi, Ronni, Melissa, Joanna, Robert, Liz, John and staffs of RMA had brought sunshine to my days out here at New York City. Loving kindness and caring of my Anna and Tashi was greatest deeds ever I came across in my lifetime. My visit to my dreamland was the greatest adventure in my life that came into reality brought up by every staffs and lovely New Yorkers. First impression took over by friendliness of the people and the various structures of buildings. Within my short stay here at my dreamland I had been learn to live on life style of New Yorkers but hardly I could pick one, however at least I came to now the time consciousness and loving kindness to the pets.

My dream of coming to New York, it has proven and came into reality where I had enjoyed the most ever in my life with my Anna, Tashi, and every New Yorker. It’s our past karmic reconnection we gather here as one family. Life is not a bed of roses, but bed of thorns where sorrows and happiness knock without any notice. Meeting was all pleasure but parting from you all is a pain to my heart. Whom to blame and curse, it’s way of life. But still I felt the separation of nail and the flesh from you all. As days are knocking day by day, every night I shed a love of tears floods over without any hindrances. My fate has destined to certain limits where I had to turn from cheering smile of you all. I will be missing you all forever, still then let’s pray in one and keep constant touch. If you all had a mind to care my words of feeling shared above, I won’t turn in frown face but in a big smile, I will serve you all. Once again before I wind up, I thank my dearest Anna, Tashi, Aoife, Ronni, Robert, Joanna and John who shared a beautiful memory to my life. A step to take forward to my motherland may my sincere prayer and wish always keep you all in safe in every step you all take forward. And in turn bowing down to everyone’s feet may your wish lead my journey safe. HAPPY NEW YEAR!!! ENJOY!!! BYE!!! BYE!!! BYE!!! SEE YOU AND WILL BE KEEPING IN TOUCH FROM SHANGRILA “LAND OF THUNDER DRAGON!”

Tuesday, December 23

Days and night flowed in steady motion where my thought flashes upon Nina in every glimpse of my lovely New Yorkers. When I was back from my sleep this morning I cling to the time, it was about to 3:00 and in long breath again I went to sleep. It was 7:30 and as usual I washed my face and finished my prayer several times but still Nina and her mom did not turn up. Plugged with ear phone I took a nap on my bed. Meanwhile doorbell rang in, then I walk to the door where Nina and her mom came in big cheering smile. I lead to my room and Nina in her great care, she stared to grab on her camera and I gave few moment talk on my visit and about daily meal. It was lovely sunny day and refreshing accompanied by Nina and her mom till museum. I made my offerings, walk back to my chair. It was a wonderful day where myself, Anna, Nina and her mom had a morning coffee. Time passed by, we shared our views and thoughts on culture and tradition. When ceremony was done, we waited for Antoinette to lead us to Metropolitan Museum and to see Christmas tree. We had a coffee at Starbucks and after sometime we headed to our destination. We had a lunch of my favorite burritos and having lunch we proceed to Rockefeller to see Christmas tree. Countless people rushed to and fro, squeezing in the middle hardly I could find my way. I had really a good time with Antoinette, Nina and her mom who cheer up my day. After long trip, we walk back in silence and ever since I felt New Yorkers never turn back once they head to the direction on their way but Nina was the one who turn back to search. Memory and thought gather, I lie under my blanket and I had my dinner of chicken soup. That was delicious.

Sunday, December 21

In my deep sound sleep, a cool gentle breeze blew under my blanket. A minute later my thought drive to bathroom where sometimes the window is left unclosed. All of a sudden I woke from my bed and happened to open the door. It was freezing and the heating knob was closed. When I got outside it was raining and wind was strong that made my wake. I rushed in haste where my face was freezing and numb. As usual I walk to the museum and I had my daily coffee on my chair. At 12:00 noon I join Tashi for lunch. We had Bhutanese rice and curry. Since staffs were out on holidays, office remains calm. I walk around street to see new sights. Followed by Monday morning, it was as usually where once again I see my Anna and lovely staffs. When my ceremony was over I rushed to my home and without my lunch again I came back to the museum to meet students. Waiting and starving there was none who showed up. Then I left to my chair and I had my Anna’s lunch I thank for her lunch and walk to the Old Navy store to look for clothings. When puja was over I went home and I did cleaning of my apartment and again I walk back to Whole Foods Market and pick my dinner of pasta mixed with turkey. It was delicious. I went to bed around 12:30 midnight.

Saturday, December 20

Bhutan, landlocked Himalayan country, it remain frozen throughout year. As I was born in the Southern foothills I find hard to bear cold, yet thinking make so. It was beyond my hope and expectation that in New York it will be snowing. As I peep through window, a beautiful foam drops continuously wherein a lovely street light add a brilliant shining on it. When morning broke, I saw a white thick foam covered in every walking side and it bring joy to my heart. I started to walk in but my shoe was not good as it slip time and again. I walk in caution, my eyes focusing to back and forth for the rushing cars too. I had my regular coffee with steam milk that Anna had taught a few days back. After a while I started to browse on computer and walk to the shrine hall. I happened to meet about five Bhutanese friends who were visiting The Dragon’s Gift. They shared with me a tea and ever expecting talk that comfort my living. Amongst all a straight forward gentle man, Sonam, crack a joke where I shed tear of laughing and crunching of my stomach. At around 5:00 I went to Tashi’s house for dinner. We had Bhutanese rice, ema datsi, dhal and other dishes too. Time to time Tashi come up with programme that cheer my day and her friends of mine friend too, especially Aum Sonam and Patricia. My hope never turn down, rather bring joy by every companion of New Yorker. Having dinner I left to my home and went to bed.

Friday, December 19

New York, my dreamland, memory of my thought hang so long and every phase of my abroad thought. New York stand as my icon of my life. My dream never ruin but come into reality where my fate has destined to from my landlocked Himalayan country to world of amazing land. At my first arrival it was different and everything look fancy. Soon adept to the surroundings and people I see same thing, but still I need aid when in trouble. Weather seems strange and not sure but anytime I am ready. This morning as I pull the curtain, a beautiful white foam covered whole side of road and still it was in process. I walk on where it share a different feeling. Though freezing but it still add and bring joy to my heart. Whole day seems lonely where my thought well up tears ready to flow out. In long cooling breath I leant on my chair and a hot cup of water hardly find my way of relief. Then hour before I left to shrine hall to prepare for my daily prayers. After prayers in the dazzling of beautiful street I walk back to my apartment with Liz. She drove at my door step and left with word of good night. I had my dinner of rice and dishes curry and stay awake till 2:30 browsing computer. Alike New Yorkers sleep was less in my eye.

Thursday, December 18

It was just about to 5:00 this morning. Ah! What a snoring it was that shattered my dream as well my sound sleep. Soon I block my ear with pillow and went to sleep once again. Time seem too short, a moment I felt when I was back from my sleep. For a while hardly I could open my weary eyes; however I try to open, it closes forcefully. I kept closed of a minutes and walk to the bathroom, still my eyes was not ready to open. With my daily prayers I started to step down to the staircase where cool gentle breeze make me awake. It was a fine lovely morning of golden ray glimmering on every window pane. In my mid of walk towards the museum, a man with cigar on his hand rushed before me, where he puff out all smokes. For a minute I turn back and again I take my steps. When my ceremony was over I walk to Hudson River to see sight and usually I hang out when weather is fine. On my way back to my apartment I lost my way but finally I saw Perry Street which I had known before. I turn round and saw St. Vincent Hospital and gourmet shop. Then only I came to realized it was Christopher Street. I had a bowl of rice with turkey in the museum and after having my lunch I walk back to my chair. At around 3:20 Anna and myself gather in the kitchen for the fruits which was tasty. When my prayer was done, I walk back to my apartment listening to my sweet music. I cook my dinner with mixed rice and beans. I usually go to bed very late.

Wednesday, December 17

Early to bed, early to rise, however the word of phrases characterized and show something for me it does not matter how late I got to bed, it’s the same time where I usually wake up every morning but very late often. Today it was too early when my sleep was over. Honks and gearing of cars, yelling and walking of people till dawn never stop. First thing I go to bathroom, shave my head and then I start to recite my daily prayers. It was cloudy and drizzling when I got outside. Then I take long step before I get wet. I made my offering and walk to my chair where I usually have my morning coffee and tea. When my ceremony was over I accompanied Tashi for lunch. We had fried beans, rice and turkey dishes. Having lunch I felt drowsy and bored. Hours later I meet with Liz and went out to refresh. It was cool and refreshing along the street. She bought a chocolate and cookies. When my prayer was over, I walk back to my home among New Yorkers. Especially during evening it’s hard to find way through large masses. Sometimes with dash one another, lame excuse was not enough but they turn back with a white eyes. Still then amongst million it’s only few so I never mind. I cook my dinner of rice and dish of curry every meal. When plate lie in front of my table, I just think back of different food stuffs here at New York that I will be missing soon, but I will try every foods before I leave for Bhutan.

Tuesday, December 16

Today when I woke up I forgot to check out the weather, what I usually do every morning before I leave my room. To my surprise when I get outside I saw the sky was overcast with clouds ready for the heavy downpour. However weather seem windy or sunny I put on my hat and wrap scarf, a heavy bag loaded on my left shoulder I start my journey. My eyes on every direction of rushing cars, I never cross road, abide by the traffic rules. Sometimes I get struck on unusual sights which bring humor. When everything is ready on my shrine I walk back to my chair and wait for Anna. Every morning she serve my coffee and sometimes we get together to brew coffee. When my ceremony is over, I walk back to my apartment for lunch. In the middle of cooking when I open the window I saw a beautiful snow fall where my heart burst into happiness. Then I quit my cooking and headed to Hudson River Park. It was really thrilling where I enjoy the most and my first experience too. I came back and I had my daily meal. It was last minute that I happened to leave my room, but at my doorstep I meet my friend and again I started to cook. I join his talk on daily experience here at New York. After a while I left to the museum and spent my time on browsing computer. It was a beautiful night where I walk to Best Buy market. Way back to home I plugged with my melodious music that give comfort. At home I cook my meal and every time I have my chili bite. I went to bed around 1:30 and every morning I wake in drowsiness.

Sunday, December 14

As when my eyes open for the day my morning days never shattered, rather, cheer by lovely charming smile of New Yorkers. My thought roves in the past fascinating days here in my dreamland where it share a joy and happiness to my heart. It is remorse walking along the street amongst New Yorkers as my days are winding, so fast, eyes fill in watery gaze back to every face of lovely New Yorker yet their smile never fades. As I step into my shrine hall, a word of pledge I pray to my lord for my favours. Then I walk to my chair where I engross on reading news and everyday joe, but still my thought of my loneliness hang so long in my mind. When my evening ritual was over I went with Tashi for her big feast. We are of about 15 people who enjoy her delicious dinner and drinks. Sadly from the cheers, I left back to my home and along the street I enjoy the street light that seems a milky way galaxy.

Saturday, December 13

It was about 5:00 when I woke up this morning. I waited in patience and seems donkey’s year. Then once again I rolled in my blanket and went to sleep for a while, but my surprise it was about 8:00 wherein in my drowsy sleepiness of my blurred eyes really could not make out the exact time. When I stand and walk to the bathroom I was as if drunk. However it is, I got inside and splash handful of cold water that hardly drive my sleep. It was cold and chilly where it blew all over. Then I rushed in long steps and upon my arrival in the museum I made my offerings and left to my chair. It was calm and quiet since staffs are out on holidays. A minute later I walk off from my chair and started to brew my regular coffee and tea as well. On my chair I usually keep in touch with computer and my daily news of Bhutan. When my ceremony was over, Eleni and Elaine came to pick up for lunch. I had a mushroom soup, tempura and rice too. I really enjoyed the food as well as talk we shared with one another. They just drove to the museum and left, while I was still in rush. At 3:30 I had a tea with Tashi and she shared her lunch too. I felt so heavy and drowsy where my eye was ready to close for deep sleep. When my prayer was over I walk back to my home, cook my dinner and I had my food bowl and with green chili bite and went to bed.


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